That’s all from Milan Fashion Week Autumn Winter 2015, folks, and as we speak, the menswear cognoscenti is flying over to Paris for the last leg of the European men’s show season. Before we get into that though, my top 10 picks from our week in Milano.
I liked Bottega Veneta for two reasons. First, those incredible colours. Second, that clash of workwear-ish top halves versus loungewear-ish bottoms — why shouldn’t extreme comfort be the ultimate luxury?
My boys Filippo e Filippo over at The Three F often rock a leather jacket over top of a suit, and I love that combination of long layers under short layers, plus tailored and street. As per usual, Ferragamo’s version is the most luxurious you’ll find.
Gucci was, without a doubt, the most talked about show of the week. We found out today that the original collection, which had been designed in full by Frida Giannini, had been scrapped just six days ago, and the new collection, which was hastily put together by a team of designers, was completed in five days. Let’s pause and think about that for a minute. Usually a fashion week collection would take months to complete, and this one was designed and sampled in five days. Insanity.
On first view, the collection was pretty hard for me to get my head around — it didn’t look like any Gucci I’d seen before (no doubt that was the point). According to the PR team, this season’s muse was a guy who travels constantly, who is surrounded by people of all cultures and walks of life, and who isn’t afraid to borrow from everyone he encounters.
So with all that in mind, the first things he seemed to be borrowing were from his girlfriend’s closet — sheer lace shirts, pussy bows and a lot of flounce. Then there were the French influences — berets, turtlenecks and stripes. And finally, I saw a kind of Scandinavian student thing with oversized parkas, thick-framed spectacles and beanies. It’s a lot to take in, and I’m still pretty confused by the womenswear pieces, but I’m interested to see where they go with it. Plus the gossip mill is working overtime with everyone trying to figure out who’s taking the creative director job, so in terms of buzz, Gucci most definitely won the week.
I don’t care if you’re a fan or not, you cannot deny Thom Browne’s brilliant showmanship or attention to the most minuscule details. This season at Moncler Gamme Beleu he had every model come out in a version of the brand’s 1950s jacket, then take it off, hang it on a coat hanger nailed to a tree, then walk around in the patchwork suit that was hidden underneath. Sidenote: How fresh is a down-filled sportcoat??
MSGM’s collection was named Rocket, and featured appliquéd robots and rockets and stars and other space-age symbols. There are a lot of hyped up brands coming out of Europe and the States at the moment, and I think MSGM is the best of the lot — they’ve nailed that mix of desirability and wearability; you could imagine someone like Pharrell rocking this stuff every day of the week.
And then there was Prada. Back in the day, the thing that exploded the company onto the world stage was this series of black nylon backpacks that were one of the most covetable designers items of the mid to late 1980s. This season’s collection featured a nod to those backpacks — the first series of suits, trench coats and shirts were cut from the same cloth; perhaps not so comfortable to wear, but a strong look all the same.
My favourite bits were the knitwear. Prada’s often done this doubled up sweater combo with a polo under a v-neck, and when you do one in black and the other in navy, it’s such a killer look. Simplicity for the win.
All photos: style.com.
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